heads up please people,as much as i like to keep my K2 original after spending 3 years restoring her i would really like some help in relation to upgrading the front brake,after riding newer bikes with "good" discs x 2 and ABS, have had the disc reground and tried different pads but at my age now i would like a little bit of stopping force up front,cheers, love the posts
heads up please people as much as i like to keep my K2 original after spending...
having trouble finding softer pads but how will braided lines help?
Rob.You can run a twin calliper set up/They are available around the world to buy
The reinforced rubber lines expand when braking and give your brakes a spongy feel. Braided lines take away that spongy feel. You may even get a benefit from fitting a larger bore master cylinder
In the day r users made their own twin disc set up using another front caliper and mounting bracket, I brass Tpiece to fit under the triple tree for the dual fluid hoses and the larger front brake handpiece from a Gold Wing that has the necessary larger brake fluid reservoir.
i was considering fitting a caliper off an F1 as they have a larger bore and brake pad to give more breaking force and the bolt holes carry the same centre just a small mod with the piping
You could also probably put a twin disc set up on using F1 brakes. The only real issue is whether the rhs F1 fork legs have mounting holes and again you would need to have a large fluid reservoir from a GWing.
This is my mates K Chris/Hope this helps
Looks awesome would love some details
Braided lines make a remarkable difference. You still want to brake early on old bikes though.
One thing you have all overlooked is the rotors are stainless steel and are poor in working, but the solution is to fitt cast-iron rotors from that motor sports mob in Bathurst
I guess it all depends on how far you want to take modifications from original. You can have stock as sold from the showroom, stock with period modifications either obvious or not, or have serious modern upgrades. Unless you go for the modern upgrades then you will not get the equivalent of modern braking and even then you will have to alter other bits (eg shockers, front forks) to get the best out of even modern brakes. The choice is the owners. But having owned a K2 from new that back in the day if you wanted to ride a 4 at the speeds it was capable of and live the first things that were done were to replace those waffly rear shocks with decent aftermarket Konis, Girlings etc, put tapered bearings in the steering head, progressively wound springs in the front forks and if you could find one an air pressure kit for the front forks and twin front discs for the really serious. Sintered Bronze s/arm bushes were an improvement and the 4 pipes so beloved of originality restorers were quickly junked for 4:1s or quality 4:2s.....the originals usually rusted out after a year anyway. Original handlebars were usually replaced with ones either higher or lower while the steel wheel rims were often replaced by alloy rims. Period engine mods included original Daytona winning parts if you could get them, 900 or 820 kits, cams, better final drive chains, CDI ignition to replace points and for the really serious a Rayjay turbocharger. An oil cooler, Lockhart being the most common, was a must and still is in my view. Other cosmetic changes for weight saving and style concerned alloy or fibreglass mudguards, replacement fuel and oil tanks, racing type or lighter seats and either bikini, half or full fairings. The choice is yours.
Yeah they are not fully stainless as they stuck to the magnetic plate to be surface ground but you are correct in saying it's the disc as it was totally new ground when they fitted a disc brake to the bike in the sixties and all the pads do is polish the damn thing
Wow, now your really scaring me :) thanks
I'm 63 this year been riding for a long time, I want this thing to stop not go :)
The brake guru's worked out SS rotors would not be best for stopping but the up side is they don't rust!