Hey do you guys use antisieze on everything? Case bolts, side covers ect. I went dry on the case bolts wondering if I should redo one by one? If so should it be 20% less than the factory torque settings?
Hey do you guys use antisieze on everything. Case bolts side covers ect
Seriously, why did Honda use Philips heads on an engine? Horrible idea.
Technically they're JAP standard screws
Allen heads are a needed upgrade. Wish they weren't all stainless. It's just too hard for aluminium.
Sure i saw one wise man who was going to use Brass once?
And they were cheese head - not allen key (sheesh).
I have to say I've used SS fixings in my last 3 bikes and never seen any seizing? How long does it take to be a problem?
How long has it been since you tried to undo them? It does take a while but once stainless and aluminium really get to know each other, well ...
Nah man, titanium dual drive. Noting says elitist asshole like $1200 in hardware on a $1000 bike.
TJ Feral - with special bevelled edges individually hand crafted by artisans on each bolt?
I think it is a combination of time and conditions. I installed stainless steel fasteners on my BMW GS in 2009. I used copper based anti seize. The bike is parked outside under a small roof with two sides closed so it is not completely out in the open. So far I did not come across a single bolt that has seized or started to seize. So I think this is only a problem when you mount the bolts dry and leave the bike outside and use it as a daily driver in all conditions (including salty).
I've only torqued up the case and crank bolts dry. I'll use antisieze for anything else outside the engine and stainless. How's that sound?
You have inspired me Glenn - I think I will go "lolly bag assorted" on my next build. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pack-6-Quality-Tapered- Allen-Hex-Key-Cap-Head-Bolts-Anodised-Gold-6mm-M6- x-20mm-/311526089033?hash=item488866e149:g:r-wAAOS wL7VWl8Zp
Noice! Aircraft Ally and all.
I would especially use anti seize on bolts that are out in the open and don't get used very often. That would apply to the engine case bolts as well.
And please note - tapered heads make the bolts lighter in weight. Imagine how much faster I will go.
Erwin Ouwejan Roger. I'll do one by one. 20% less torque values or are values in the book with antisieze/oil?
Yes, in my opinion that would be wise
I'd imagined not too much faster? ;)
But better fuel economy!!
Hmm - tapered titanium bolts or just skip that second jam donut before the big race ...
In some cases standard bolts are better. Ever tried getting the cam chain tensioner off an intact bike when some nufty has fitted it with Allen key bolts?
Skip the bolts. You will be able to afford heaps of donuts then!
I just didn't like using a screwdriver on engine bolts. Replacing internals with Allen heads is goofball shit. More money than brains.
Dry is a horrible idea. First, your torque specs will be very off with dry threads and second corrosion of dissimilar metals will increase if there is no protection. Even Loc-Tite helps with both of these.
If you dry torqued the crank bolts, your torque is not correct unless you measured bolt stretch.
Hmm looks like I'm splitting the cases! Lucky there's nothing to these engines. Hopefully the 3bond around the seals clean up ok?
Split and torqued up with anti sieze!!