Hey do you guys use antisieze on everything. Case bolts side covers ect

Hey do you guys use antisieze on everything? Case bolts, side covers ect. I went dry on the case bolts wondering if I should redo one by one? If so should it be 20% less than the factory torque settings?

27 comments
  • Seriously, why did Honda use Philips heads on an engine? Horrible idea.

  • Technically they're JAP standard screws

  • Allen heads are a needed upgrade. Wish they weren't all stainless. It's just too hard for aluminium.

  • Sure i saw one wise man who was going to use Brass once?

  • Brasster

  • And they were cheese head - not allen key (sheesh).

  • I have to say I've used SS fixings in my last 3 bikes and never seen any seizing? How long does it take to be a problem?

  • How long has it been since you tried to undo them? It does take a while but once stainless and aluminium really get to know each other, well ...

  • Nah man, titanium dual drive. Noting says elitist asshole like $1200 in hardware on a $1000 bike.

  • TJ Feral - with special bevelled edges individually hand crafted by artisans on each bolt?

  • I think it is a combination of time and conditions. I installed stainless steel fasteners on my BMW GS in 2009. I used copper based anti seize. The bike is parked outside under a small roof with two sides closed so it is not completely out in the open. So far I did not come across a single bolt that has seized or started to seize. So I think this is only a problem when you mount the bolts dry and leave the bike outside and use it as a daily driver in all conditions (including salty).

  • I've only torqued up the case and crank bolts dry. I'll use antisieze for anything else outside the engine and stainless. How's that sound?

  • Noice! Aircraft Ally and all.

  • I would especially use anti seize on bolts that are out in the open and don't get used very often. That would apply to the engine case bolts as well.

  • And please note - tapered heads make the bolts lighter in weight. Imagine how much faster I will go.

  • Erwin Ouwejan Roger. I'll do one by one. 20% less torque values or are values in the book with antisieze/oil?

  • Yes, in my opinion that would be wise

  • I'd imagined not too much faster? ;)

    But better fuel economy!!

  • Hmm - tapered titanium bolts or just skip that second jam donut before the big race ...

  • In some cases standard bolts are better. Ever tried getting the cam chain tensioner off an intact bike when some nufty has fitted it with Allen key bolts?

  • Skip the bolts. You will be able to afford heaps of donuts then!

  • I just didn't like using a screwdriver on engine bolts. Replacing internals with Allen heads is goofball shit. More money than brains.

  • Dry is a horrible idea. First, your torque specs will be very off with dry threads and second corrosion of dissimilar metals will increase if there is no protection. Even Loc-Tite helps with both of these.

  • If you dry torqued the crank bolts, your torque is not correct unless you measured bolt stretch.

  • Hmm looks like I'm splitting the cases! Lucky there's nothing to these engines. Hopefully the 3bond around the seals clean up ok?

  • Split and torqued up with anti sieze!!