Hi peeps, I'm stuck, trying to do my mccts, the side access screw (large) is buggered, tried and tried to get it out, it's rounded off, I've tried a chisel but to no effect, so I thought I'd take the side casing off but The clutch hydraulic housing is in the way! Any suggestions how to get it off and then remove the screw?
Hi peeps I m stuck trying to do my mccts the side access screw large is...
Use a hammer and a centre punch that should work it free had same with mine
I made a key wrench like one for an angle grinder. Drilled two small holes on the edge about 6mm in on the flat face and about 4mm in diameter. Then got a piece of metal and and drilled two holes in that (same spacing as on the large bolt) put two screws in the there with a nut and you have your key wrench :)
I'll give that a go Chris, did you do it while it was on or off the bike?
On the bike the metal seize together.. Need shocking to break seal nit will work it's way off
Sounds ideal John, just not sure if this bugger will shift,
Well mine was only about 10cms long. single strip of metal. quite thick so it doesn't twist. One stubby screw at the end, another about 3/4" back from that. That's the spacing of the holes on the rounded off nut on the bike. slot the two screws in (make sure they only have a max of about 10mm of thread showing and wrench it around :D
If the metal is too thin or the screws too long they'll not shift the nut and twist.
Also may sound daft but I take it this bloody access screw is a standard thread, to unscrew!
Don't remember to be honest. I think it's a fine thread. But if you mean anti-clockwise then yes.
Result, just had another go at it with a stone chisel and it's gone, the bugger is out at last, thanks guys
There is a guy called Mark Hills who makes titanium ones. For both the small bolt and the large one.
When u put the new bolt in put a smear of grease or anti seize on thread. Bolts binding on alloy can be a problem and they seize in well as u found out. If u use stainless bolts it's more crucial as stainless binds to alloy really well if not carefull
Is he the chap on vtr1000 forum? What sort of money does he charge?
Pictures because I'm putting green off doing this myself haha
I tried that on mine and it still wouldn't move.
I honestly don't recall. I think its about £35.
I was going to hopefully get a pair of titanium screws mate, are they ok or just as bad?
I'd say put a smear of grease or anti seize on any bolt. Just helps abit to keep em from binding and they go in easier. Better to be safe than sorry I say. I do it al time and never have an issue
Henry, at the moment mate it's not been too bad, I was a bit daunted myself been chasing around garages to get them to do it but no one in Bristol until last week that is wanted to touch it because they haven't got the time to strip the bike down, so I've decided with the help of my brother to have a go ourselves, I've stripped the rads off as I'm going to clean it all up and paint the rads, fairing brackets etc while it's all off and as the bike has been sat in the garage for 2 years now only being fired up now and again, I'm stripping the carbs apart and going to get em cleaned by ultrasonic bath
I've just started another post with pics, more to come tomorrow hopefully when I start stripping the carbs apart, I'm off to have a clean up and a can of lager now, not a bad afternoons work me thinks
Wd40 and a cold chisel worked for me but go steady
I had to cut a slot with a dremmel, then long thin bar into slot.
Hammer & center punch near the edge about 5mm in as it has a lip. Bit of heat wont hurt prior to trying. When you put the new one back in as you have buggerd this one up use a bit of copperslip & dont do it up too tight...
Thanks guys, I've managed to get it off now, chisel and a bit of brute force and ignorance lol. Just need to get new ones now
Henry Rea..... That new alumiweld we were chatting about yesterday might work too as a repair! Id like to have a go at it when you get around to getting it off......