I have two similar bikes. a 2000 Shadow ACE 1100T and an 04 Shadow 750

I have two similar bikes: a 2000 Shadow ACE 1100T and an 04 Shadow 750. I'm currently experiencing starting problems with both.

I've trickle-charged both batteries to full and then documented the symptoms from there. I have limited knowledge of mechanics, but I know this is my learning experience and I'm building that knowledge base. I think I'll probably need to get a voltmeter before this is all over.

On the 04 750 the battery appears to be fully charged with no problem charging and holding the charge long-term. The battery is not, but has not given me any problems yet.

I turn the key and all dashboard and headlights come on strong. I press the ignition button and it ticks rapidly but won't turn over. The lights and dashboard electronics flicker and the mileage trip meter resets.

Several wks ago it did this for one or two days, but we push-started it just fine. Then a day or two later it started regular with no problem, and started again when we tested it after we got back from our short ride. A week later, wouldn't start again, same problem.

Now, it has successfully push-started and stayed running every single time until I cut the engine off. I figure its either a loose wire somewhere in the process between the ignition bike and the engine turning over, or a blown fuse (which I haven't bothered to check yet). Could it be spark plugs...since the ignition ticks rapidly when pressing the bike, I assume it's trying to fire something, but I don't know much about spark plugs.

Now for the 2000 ACE: it has a new battery, within the last 3 mths. The battery required has proper fluid (acid/water) that I filled per instructions when I installed it, and the bike ran fine after that until recently. The levels appear to be full, at the correct level.

I trickle-charged it overnight, about 24 hours, and then attempted to start. The first time I charged it up to full several wks ago when the problem first started, after it was charged, when I unplugged it and didn't start, I think I remember trying to start it after plugging the charger back on to it, and memory serves me, IT STARTED. Again, I don't 100% remember, but after disconnecting the charger, I'm pretty sure I let it run for about 5 mins and then cut off the engine, tried it again, and it started successfully that second time.

I tried starting it again the next day and we were back to the same old problem. Since the beginning, the main observation is that I turn the key, dash and lights come on (may be weak in strength), and when I press the ignition button, it does almost nothing to turn over, no ticking at all, and the strength of electronics (lights) dims way down, and then the second time I try pushing the ignition button, even less of nothing, lights/electronics are extremely weak, and it seems as it (the perfectly good/new and fully charged) battery drains immediately with the first couple pushes of the ignition button.

Several mths back, on one of these bikes (I can't remember which now) the ignition button seemed to have s loose wire because it wouldn't do anything when I pressed it. This went on for a couple days of riding tried and I remember banging or knocking on the ignition housing on the handle and it worked fine after that. But I don't think that's the case with either of these problems now.

One thought is it's the stator on the bike that will push-start and run fine, and has full battery but just won't turn over. That's the 04 750.

But on the 2000 1100T with the brand new battery, it just won't hold a charge and won't start, turn over or run with a push-start at all. I'm gonna get some pushing help trying to push-start it this evening, since it's bigger and much harder (if not impossible) to push-start on my own.

I've read that you should never jump-start a bike from a car battery, but a AAA tow truck started me up one time way back and swore it wouldn't my bike in any way. I'm suspicious of starting with a full battery while plugged into a wall electrical outlet, too, but it's worked once or twice before with no apparent harm.

I'll be pissed if the 1100 is ruining my new brand batteries because of whatever electrical/battery problem it's having.

Your help is appreciated.



12 комментар.
  • Shorted........not shorter

  • The rapid clicking you hear is the result of the battery, although having plenty of voltage, not having enough amperage to turn the starter motor. You can load test them, but ill bet the cost of a new battery that I'm spot on.

  • When mine went it didn't even click. Just stopped. And I ride it 5-6 days a week. It's nice to hear from Jeremy. Great to have the voice of experience. Wish I joined this site sooner.

  • Did you take off the battery cables, and clean them then tighten them back on. Had this same problem once and that was all I needed to do.

  • Is there gas in the tank ?

  • (With only slight sarcasm) Yes, both have gas. I WILL double-chk the 1100, but it won't even turn over, whether it had gas or not. :(

  • Don't make the mistake of lighting a match to see how much gas might be in the tank - I know a guy who did that and he nearly blew himself and his house up - had his bike parked in the kitchen because it was so cold outside ....

  • OK- seriously-Paul- does your mom know youre on the computer?

  • On the bike- trickle charger will NOT charge your battery-either take it off and take it over to autozone to charge or get a multi volt battery charger and dial it down- the fact that youre having the same issue with both bikes is a little strange- do you store chemicals near the bike? Certain pool chemicals can erode your wiring...

  • After checking your battery terminals for clean and tight connections. Assuming your batteries are good the most probable cause is the starter button/ kill switch. Take it apart and clean all contacts and it should be good to go.

  • Everyone had great input here, but I would have to agree with Jeremy and Dave...the issue is most likely with the batteries. The starter switch has been known to be a problem on several Shadow models and faulty battery connections can be at fault as well, but my money would be on the batteries themselves, especially if charging has not been optimum. Let us know what you find out. If you do have to replace them, I strongly recommend the new Lithium Iron Phosphate battery. They are considerably more expensive, but will last much longer and discharge only 10% even if left sitting unused for a full year. They are much smaller than traditional batteries. Plus they have way more cold cranking amps (the Ballistic 12 cell has 410 CCA vs about 220 for standard lead acid or gels) The added life expectancy of the battery should more than make up for the price difference and there's no substitute for the peace of mind especially on a long trip.

  • I don't even use the cut out switch. I just use the key. BTW my car battery died yesterday. Same symptoms as your bike.