I wired up my led headlight bar the way they suggested on chuckus life..when i rev my engine they cut off..anybody know why or can suggest another way to wire
I wired up my led headlight bar the way they suggested on chuckus life
Did U move the blue wire in2 the accessory plug?
I cut the two wires from the harness and connected right to them
William Pickman Look @ the website again & look @ the 12v AC to DC write up tho.. That should solve ur issue...
Inline fuse to toggle switch straight to battery. Ground to frame
Cool..ill check it out..ill double check it..all else fails..ill just install a switch
Wire up a relay with power straight from the battery, and the factory headlight wiring to trigger the relay. $5 relay, 2 ft of wire and you'll be good keeping it off the "factory" wiring
I would like to keep using stock switch..ill give it a shot..did you use a load resistor when running it straight off the battery?
Load resistor for what? You're wiring up a 12v LED bar for a headlight right? 5 amp fuse on the battery side and you're good
Cool..i know i had to use one on my car..and ive see videos of guys installing them on scooters..so i wasnt sure
Wiring is a bitch
Lol..its definitely throwing me a curve ball..i really was just wanting to use the stock switch..prolly just gonna install my own and make it easy on myself
Yeah I have a brand new light bar for my ruckus, I looked at the wiring and put it right back in the box
It should be simple..im able to get it to light..but once i rev..light goes out..so i know ive got a complete circuit
Check out Darby Brown's site. He makes a harness for the switched 12v dc power and a harness to keep hi/low beam on your stock controls. https://sites.google.com/site/vanagonheadlightrela ys/scooter-stuff/chuckus-headlight-dc-power/switch ed-12vdc-jumper-kit?pli=1
Scooter wiring is as easy as it gets.
The wires in the photo are reversed. Black on the light goes to green on the scooter harness. Red on the light goes to white on the scooter harness. This allows you to turn the light off by switching to high beam when idling so you save some juice.
The factory wiring is designed for the stock lights @ 18Wea. The Nilight and most other 7" dual row LED light bars pull less than 30W, so there is absolutely no need for a relay or a resistor if you just want a simple on/off with the ignition switch.
Hook the light up as I decribe above, then do the switched power conversion as shown in the tutorial I wrote and you are good to go.