"If it ain't broken, don't try to fix it!" So...last night, I was reading up on how to adjust your manual CCTs - apparently it's "finger tight, then back off a quarter of a turn." I checked one of mine today and I was able to screw it in quite a long way by hand (and I'm not the Incredible Hulk!) After locking the locknut, I ran the bike and it sounded fine, so I nipped to the shops on it. After leaving the shop, I hit the starter button and heard a slight "moan" before it fired. Each time I started up, I'd hear a brief "moan" before it fired. When I got home and hit the starter, it failed to turn over, then struggled to turn over. I suspect the starter is the issue but I backed off the CCTS a bit, just in case. Any thoughts?
If it ain t broken don t try to fix it So last night I was reading up on...
When I done mine I set it up as per forum .... Got it nice and warm and they was too tight so I eased them out slightly while engine was ticking over ... If it started to rattle it was too loose so eased them back in then locked them up was sweet after that
Thanks guys. I've done all of that stuff - I installed my MCCTs last June. I only adjusted the rear one today, after reading the "finger tight" thing. I was curious to see if the engine would be quieter.
That sounds good Brian.
How did you know they were too tight once warmed up?
When I started it cold it was fine ... When warm it was like the battery was struggling to spin it over ... If that makes sense
Its alot quieter if it dont work. ;-)
Did you set the timing correctly in turn on each cylinder before adjusting?
All he did was tighten it
Till it squealed like a piggy - not the wisest move. I wonder what he read and if he read from the beginning of whatever instructions before wielding spanners apparently at random. Ho hum...
I had the same problem myself. 1/4 was to tight. 1/2 was better.
John! What are you rambling about? I did the job correctly.
Bryn Danson Hehe
Brian Turnbull Thanks Brian.
Just to clarify - I did the CCTs last June. I've been riding the bike, problem-free, ever since (9 months) - I did the job correctly.
I cant believe this 'finger tight' stuff. What sort of engineering is that? I followed the instructions on the vtr1000.org site which gives 5-7mm of free play on the chain top run (between the cam sprockets). I opted for the 7mm end of the range, and this seems fine. It is better to err on the loose end rather than have the chain too tight which will load up the bearings, hence the groaning.
Exactly what I did Dave. Hence "If it ain't broken..."
I say use auto ccts...
I don't trust autos, thats why i ended up replacing front cylinder head, auto faliure.
The only way to be 100% sure is to take off both cam covers & starting with the rear set at TDC check the deflection in the chain. Remove the cover over the chain, 3 bolts, stuff the gap with rag to prevent losts nuts entering the engine. Then with a steel rule behind the chain so you can see the marks, push down & pull up in the center of the chain & note the deflection. You are looking to get between 5mm & 7mm TOTAL up & down movement. Box it back up when happy Locking off the CCT at that point. Now move on to the front...More difficult to do as you have to strip[ out the heat sheild & get the cam cover off, then it's a bugger to see any way...but it is possible. IMO the the finger tight back off 1/4 turn is do able but how tight is 'finger tight' surely it varies hand to hand...er finger to finger...???
I use finger tight and back off, turn engine over with socket if its running free, np. Thats obviously turning over without plugs in
Done over 30 VTR'S this way and never had an issue. Finger tight is exactly that. Don't turn your hand just your fingers. :)
Mac, good instructions and that's precisely how I installed my MCCTs last June
Jay Morrison I'll have another go at it tomorrow. I suppose that instructions saying "Finger tight", is a bit like a recipe saying "Add salt"
Lol. Kind of. It means no pressure, don't hang off of it. ;) Make sure you are on TDC for each cylinder when adjusting though.
Jay Morrison This method would definitely benefit from a video of it being done by someone with over 30 VTRs worth of experience
I have been thinking about doing one. If I have time I will do on my next cct change. ;)
Jay Morrison Excellent! But going back to my finger tightening - would I be able to find TDC on the rear cylinder, without pulling the lid off, to look at the cams and pulley marks?
Just remove the rear valve cover, time that to TDC and adjust then turn the engine ANTICLOCKWISE" 450 degrees (1&1/4 turns) and you're on TDC on the front then. Adjust the front cct and put it back together. Rear cams will be in this position when the front cylinder is on TDC.
Nope you need to see alignment on cams as well as timing mark
Ok. Cheers guys!
Yes & no is the simlpe answer to that....By checking in the small plug on side cover you can see the R/T mark...however it is only by looking at the cams themselves that you can be sure you have the correct point. You can have it on R/T but it can be on the wrong point of the cams. The lobes NEED to be facing in towards each other.
Exactly as MG mac says.
Otherwise your flipping a coin, buddy.
Here we have as many breadowns due to overtensioning manual ones and wearing down the chain faster as failures of auto ccts...so i many riders change the auto on regular basis here, bout 20k
But anyone can do as they beleive and please of course
Once you have the rear TDC the front is easy to find without removing the front cover.
Thanks guys, it all makes sense.
Jay Morrison I do have another question though. If
I'm not removing the MCCTs, merely adjusting them. Is it necessary to be at TDC? This adjustment can also be made while the engine is running, can't it?
I would only recommend as I instructed. Each cylinder only adjusted on TDC starting with the rear cylinder first.
Jay Morrison Ok. Fair enough. Thanks again!
No mistakes that way. :)