My brakes feel a bit spongy Like they need lots of pressure applied before...

My brakes feel a bit spongy.. Like they need lots of pressure applied before they work properly... Used to be able to lock up the rear wheel easily, now gotta put load of pressure on it....

It's not my brake lines coz me and Toby Newman sorted them the other day.

Would my brake pads need changing? Far as I'm aware I've had stock ones on for the 15000+ miles ive covered... Not sure if they been changed or not during that time.

Any other suggestions?

26 comments
  • Sliding pins is most likely IMHO. Specially considering the state of the bike.

    They get seized, and then the piston moves but the caliper doesn't slide.

    Pop the caliper off its bracket, clean the pins, and apply some silicon grease in the rubber boots. Important not to use normal grease or the rubber boots will swell and seize the caliper completely.

  • is it only the rear brakes ?

  • The above can apply to both calipers but from what I've seen on mine when I took the calipers off to fit brembos, the rear suffers worse.

  • A nice little trick for the fronts is, get a strong elastic band and tie front brake lever to grip over night, (so it's engaged) , as if by magic front lever will feel spot on. It gets rid of the air that's trapped. Don't ask me how it works but it does!

  • Both front and rear. Gonna swap over the pads and go from there

  • What that does is makes the sliding pins creep forward overnight to where they should be. Doesn't stay right for long though.

  • Ahh I see, Makes sense I guess. I've done it a few times on other bikes.

  • Have you got adjustable levers? Silly I know but mine felt really spongy then I adjusted my lever and it was fine.

  • I got the ASV C5 series... Their shorty's, but width adjustable to suit long or short reach.

    Not length adjustable tho

  • If the front is the problem, can make a big difference to put some grease (again silicon grease only) at the point where the lever pushes the master cylinder piston. White spray grease is good for that but if it's already dirty, try taking out the lever, cleaning both surfaces, then greasing.

  • I adjusted it so it was closer to me.

  • My brake is already as near to me as I can set it...

    I'm gonna try changing pads and then see if there's air in system

  • Who did your brake bleeding

  • Get a few air bubbles out with all the pressure

  • Yeah bleed 'em first, as it's cheaper then all else fails spend couple of quid and get some pads:D

  • Me and Toby done it.... Was done properly, just seems bit spongy now.... Can still endo fine, just needs more pressure on front and rear to lock up.

    Don't think my pads been changed in the 15000 miles they've been on

  • I'm getting another set of stock pads for free, so gonna swap them round and have a look at re bleeding the lines aswell

  • Maybe bleed back again? But over night hold the front brake lever on with something like duct tape

  • Gonna swap pads over and then re bleed. Hopefully be sorted afterwards

  • Pads should be alright change if they are bad

  • Have you checked your pistons are moving freely? Should be able to move them with firm finger pressure

  • Had them

    On 15,000 miles or so.

    Think they're due a change sooner or later

  • I'll check when swap the pads over.

    Brakes still work just need added pressure, but since I engine brake most of the time I don't really touch them

  • That's not why people do it, they do it to get any remaining bubbles out the system once they bleed the brakes, some swear by it, some say it's a waste of time. I've seen people do it on brand new brake setups

  • I know what they think they're doing, but if that's what's happening then why would it only be a temporary fix?

  • Proberly those dodgy ASV levers