• Ok so having trouble bleeding the dam clutch on my 83 v45 mag what grease do I...

    Ok so having trouble bleeding the dam clutch on my 83 v45 mag..... what grease do I use in the ring and do I just lube the inside lip

    14 comments
    • It's usually fine, especially if you don't loosen the banjo bolts enough that the washers can rotate. The washers "coin" to the mating surfaces, and if the washers don't rotate there is usually no problem. It's of course best to replace them, only tightening them to full torque after bleeding.

    • Best to replace. That's what the manufacturer says. I think it's CYA. I have never had an old one leak in a car or motorcycle. I've been working on stuff for 35 yrs.

    • GET A MITYVAC AT AUTOZONE FOR 30$

    • you'll have that clutch operating like new in 30 seconds

    • Grab a 10% off coupon to make it even cheaper!

    • I have one and it seems good like no air coming out but when I pull on the clutch it's lose as hell

    • It will never feel tight. does it release fully?

    • Yup but it's jamming into gear I'll take a video and put it up later on my 82 it was nice and firm

    • my clutch is tight as hell

    • And I just got done doing the master and slave so somethings up

    • Tweak, did anyone mention that when doing the brake and clutch, there should be a 3/4 inch spacer between the lever and handle bar to prevent piston over travel? This may be part of the problem making it difficult to bleed.

    • Nope they did not I shall try it

    • When bleeding the brakes and clutch, use a 20mm(3/4 inch) spacer between the lever and handlebars to prevent piston over travel and clutch fluid seepage. (7-4 of factory manual).