Photos from Ross Petersen's post


started tearing into the v65 today. The motor was siezed up pretty good but some penetrating oil and a chain wrench freed things up pretty well. It does have spark oddly enough, got compression too so I've got the carbs pulled and I'm going through them the next few days. Once I get them back on, the bike should be running! Not bad for a free bike that supposedly didn't run.

%d comments
  • it will love you back when ya are done, very worthwhile Ross Petersen!

  • So far I've spent about 40 bucks that's an oil change and spark plugs and some new brake/clutch fluid. The air box got turned into a rats nest so I'm gonna get a new filter mayber K&N? any suggestions? I also need new sight glasses for the brake and clutch resivoirs, antifreeze and flush.

  • Your entire fuel system will likely need thoroughly cleaned unless lucks on your side

  • K&N for sure!

  • That rusted valve stem is scary. I would turn it over very slowly until it gets freed up and doesn' t stick at operating RPM. LOTS OF OIL

  • Yeah Jeff I just finished cleaning the carbs. Luckily (at least when I picked it up) the main tank was empty. The auxiliary had some in it though. It would appear only the two right side carbs had any fuel in them but they all definitely needed going through. I'm amazed at how unused some of these parts look though. The needle and seats look almost brand new but as near as I can tell these carbs have never been opened. And when we broke the engine free at first Wallace, we turned by hand for a number of revolutions and then with the starter while trying to see if it'd start. I'll give it another go while I've got the carbs off and make sure everything looks operational.

  • The V65 Magna of Michael S. Thompson carbs do not appear to have had a screwdriver against the manifold clamp screws. I only had to expose the idle mixture screws on them to open up the low speed jets with my miniature drills. (Compressed air will never unblock a small jet) gotta use a small tip cleaner or micro drill or a strand of wire.

    I always sync the carbs on the bench using drill bits as a Guage to make all 4 butterflies open exactly the same when just off idle. I set the idle stop screw up high enough so all are under a slight load.

    Then I insert the front carbs into the rubber manifolds first and use two of my wife's teaspoons like a shoe horn to slip the rears easily into place. I bend the teaspoons if needed to clear the frame and stuff. Works nice if you don't use the already. They are perfect size and shape and make it a snap.

  • Mike's 1986 magna has 42,000 on it darned near perfect

  • I always set the floats 1 mm richer than nominal spec. They start better and have better low RPM torque and mileage.

  • Thanks for the good info!