• Photos from Ryan Hawes's post

    So...its bright but it just doesn't project.... anyone know why?

    • Call 999 for the fire :-)

    • Why

    • ^ You would melt the switchgear most likely.

      I had a CB-1 that should have a 55/60 headlight. That's just under 10A of current if you press the headlight flasher to put both filaments on. The PO had put a 90/100 bulb in (just over 15A) and every time I pressed the flasher the fuse popped. Took me a while to work that out.

    • Jake, What Aaron said.

    • You're putting 90w (at 12v it's 7.5A) through a circuit meant for 35w (3A). The wiring is very thin, it's liable to melt.

    • Scott, yes your lamp is going to burn out. Best is tap into the running light wire from the brake light.

    • Thanks Aaron, Further questions I have a Givi Topbox and I bought a Givi LED brake light kit that goes with it and I made a splitter Y-cable to power it so I presume that LED will be safe and not burn out ?, My rear light/brake light Y-Cable splitter :-

    • I also bought these stick on indicators http://www.carbuildersolutions .com/uk/stick-on-amber-led-ind icator-pair-leda9 to stick on Topbox and I also made a Y-cable splitter to rear indicators would these additional inidicators LED just burn out as well ? Rear Inidicators Y-Cable splitter :-

    • We did tell you this once already Jake Simpson

    • Y-connector is fine, since all the power in it is DC already. That'd be an ideal place to take DC +12v from the tail light. Sme for the indicators, they are already powered from DC.

    • Thanks Aaron, So my Y-connectors for brake light and indicators will be fine, So I just need to tap into the running light wire to power my new LED license plate light, Should be straight forward.